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Most members of the VMCC ? myself included ? know little about Latvia other than the fact that it is somewhere at the far end of the Baltic Sea and has recently joined the EU. It does not have a long history as an independent Nation - the era which now embraces the country - having been for centuries under German, Swedish and Polish rule and a part of Russia. With the end of World War I, Latvia and its neighbours Lithuania and Estonia became submerged as satellite states of the USSR. With the end of Soviet dominance in the early nineties Latvia re-emerged and the last fourteen years have seen the re-establishment of democracy and investment in infrastructure and industry which had been impossible under Soviet rule. Incidentally, the population is around 2.5 million, which compares with, for instance, that of Norway or New Zealand (both around 4.5 million).
Those with long memories will know that VMCC member Juris Ramba has been the leading light on the Vintage and Veteran motorcycle scene in Latvia for many years and has visited the UK on several occasions, more recently taking part in the Pioneer Run, the Banbury Run and the TT Rally. For the Banbury and the TT Rally, Juris rode his restored 1926-ish Model 25 Norton and I took it as a great compliment that he invited me to ride this precious machine in this year?s Round Kurland Rally, of which he is the organizer. All I had to do was to get myself to Riga, and so it was that I found myself jam-packed into the singularly Spartan (but cheap) direct daily Ryanair flight from Stansted on 14 July along with Pat and Mary Gill, who were also taking part in the Rally. Pat?s immaculate 1928/9 Model X Matchless had been shipped out a few days earlier by road.
We were duly decanted onto the tarmac at Riga?s smart post-Soviet airport and Juris was awaiting us as we went through Customs. A short trip into the Centre of Riga followed, where accommodation had been arranged for us in a smart penthouse flat built into the roof space of one of Old Riga?s attractive 18th century buildings. Luggage duly left, we were whisked off to an enjoyable and convivial dinner with other members of clan Ramba and visiting American/Harley enthusiast Bruce Linsday and his Latvian wife and sister-in-law? ? and so to bed.
Friday morning saw us doing a bit of sight-seeing round Old Riga, where many buildings date back several centuries and reflect Riga?s prosperous past as an important member of the Hanseatic League. Then it was time for a taxi to the gathering point for the Rally at Riga?s excellent motor museum, in which Juris is also involved.
The next several hours were spent meeting other participants and admiring their mostly immaculate machines. There were nearly fifty entrants from twelve countries and 19 makes of machine, dating from 1926 to 1979, which made it a truly international affair. Apart from Pat and myself, the VMCC was represented by Neilsen Frederick Webster from Newcastle on his 1960 Triumph, Jacqueline Bickerstaff with her well-travelled Vincent Rapide, Swedish member Mats Munklinde with another Rapide ? and Juris himself, who somehow managed to ride his 1937 Harley-Davidson Knucklehead (OHV to non Harley-ites) as well as running the whole show!
The Model 25 Norton was duly fired up ? it is an easy starter despite the racing gearbox with no kickstart ? and obligatory numbers attached. It is very well set up with all controls nicely within reach and, I was pleased to note, the usually mediocre eight inch Ehfield front brake really worked! By about six o?clock it was time for the whole cavalcade ? accompanied by yellow jacketed outriders from the ?MC OPPOZITORS? modern bike Club in Riga ? to launch itself into the Friday evening traffic, which was, I have to say, every bit as bad as London in the rush-hour! Perhaps not the ideal way to familiarise myself with a machine with a bottom gear akin to that of a Gold Star BSA, but the clutch withstood the necessary stops and starts well, and despite the temperature (somewhere in the eighties), there were no problems with the machine overheating. A short stop for photos was followed by a pleasant run of 70 km out into the countryside to Durbe, an attractive 18th century house which once belonged to the local German land owners. This, after years of neglect under the Soviets, has been restored and the administrators had kept it open until nearly eight o?clock in the evening so that we could see it. Then it was on to the Slokenbeck Estate at Tukums where the Rally HQ was located and where inexpensive accommodation or camping had been arranged for all those who requested it, for both Friday and Saturday nights.
Start time for the Rally was 8.15 am on the following day and one could opt for timed or untimed participation for the 108 km run through unspoilt countryside to the old town of Kuldiga. Detailed English language route cards and maps had been provided, although I decided it would be easier just to follow on and enjoy the ride. The need for glasses to read the route card and no glasses required for riding was just too complicated!
Minor disaster struck the Norton just after the route entered a 10 km section of gravelled road ? the fuel pipe fractured just below the B and B carburettor. However, it was not long before one of the back-up vans appeared and we continued to Kuldiga on four wheels. Kuldiga was fortuitously ?en fete? and a tour round the town had been arranged before lunch. I had removed the fuel pipe from the Norton and Juris returned it to me within half an hour duly repaired. After lunch, the Norton fired up again without problem and I joined the processional ride out of town ? all arranged beforehand with a police escort and crowds lining the streets ? for the more direct route back to Tukums. Here, the final part of the event took place ? a short regularity timed hill climb. The Norton did not do too well on this ? the engine cutting out periodically on the first run due to excessive richness, although the second run, with a bit less throttle, saw a clean climb.
Then a short run back to the Hotel/HQ in a slight shower ? the second in two days of otherwise perfect weather ? followed later in the evening by an excellent buffet dinner, prize giving and dance. The VMCC contingent fared well ? Pat Gill winning the award for a Fresh Restoration ? both he and his Matchless having needed extensive rebuilds following a horrendous prang in August last year caused by yet another careless motorist. Jacqueline Bickerstaff got a silver ring ? the Miss Kurland Round award for a lady rider and Neilsen Frederick Webster got the award for the most consistent times at the Hill climb. And as for me, it is an indication of ever-present fact that time flies that I won an award for the Greatest Combined Age of Machine and Rider!
Sunday morning came round and it was time to say goodbye to Slokenbeck as competitors loaded up their machines or indeed, rode away on them! Juris had organized a return route to the Riga Motor Museum for his group if I can call them that, in which we stopped off at Klapkalnciems to have a look at the Baltic Sea and the unspoilt sandy beaches ? uncrowded despite the excellent weather. The only slight cloud on the horizon was the loss of the bulb and reed from the Norton?s obligatory ?audible means of warning? which disappeared en route.
For the rest of the day, Juris drove Pat, Mary and myself over to Rundale palace, a vast 18th century palace set in remote countryside, built by a Russian aristocrat. This had been allowed to deteriorate during the Soviet occupation, but much excellent restoration work has been carried out. One room has been retained in a ?before restoration? state and gives a good idea of the monumental task facing the restorers. Well up to the standard of the best National Trust properties in UK, in my view.
Finally back to the airport for the uneventful return flight and drive home, arriving at 2.30 in the morning! A crowded but enjoyable four days in which I met many enthusiasts with similar interests, and, in my opinion, a Rally organisation second to none. I certainly recommend other VMCC members with a taste for foreign events to give serious consideration to participation in next year?s Round Kurland Rally.
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